Wave refraction and longshore transport patterns along the southern Santa Catarina coast
Open Access
- 1 June 2007
- journal article
- Published by FapUNIFESP (SciELO) in Brazilian Journal of Oceanography
- Vol. 55 (2), 109-120
- https://doi.org/10.1590/s1679-87592007000200004
Abstract
Based on the wave climate for the southern Brazilian coast, wave refraction has been modelled in order to obtain the refracted wave heights and directions along the southern Santa Catarina coast, providing the needed information for potential longshore drift estimates. According to its coastline orientation, different sectors of the coast present varying longshore drift patterns. Estimates have been made for the yearly-averaged wave climate as well as for each season, showing thereby the longshore drift patterns along the year. Based on the results of the potential longshore drift intensities and directions and on the shoreline outline in plan, it has been possible to identify a strongly drift-dominated coast in the south turning to a mixed drift and swash dominated coast towards the north of the studied area. Contrasting patterns of longshore drift between the southern and northern portion of the coastline indicate a sediment surplus in the central portion, making sediment available for cross-shore transport processes, either on- or offshore. Considering long-term aspects, the longshore drift patterns are in agreement with the coastal infilling process which has mainly been driven by persistent surplus from littoral sediment drift.Keywords
This publication has 8 references indexed in Scilit:
- A critical review of mid- to late-Holocene sea-level fluctuations on the eastern Brazilian coastlineQuaternary Science Reviews, 2006
- Longshore transport on the northeastern Brazilian coast and implications to the location of large scale accumulative and erosive zones: An overviewMarine Geology, 2005
- UMA APROXIMAÇÃO DE PRIMEIRA ORDEM ENTRE O CLIMA DE ONDAS E A LOCALIZAÇÃO, DE LONGA DURAÇÃO, DE REGIÕES DE ACUMULAÇÃO FLÚVIO-MARINHA E DE EROSÃO NA COSTA NORTE DO BRASILRevista Brasileira de Geociências, 2003
- A significant longshore transport divergence zone at the Northeastern Brazilian coast: implications on coastal Quaternary evolutionAnais da Academia Brasileira de Ciências, 2002
- Patterns of sediment dispersion coastwise the State of Bahia - BrazilAnais da Academia Brasileira de Ciências, 2000
- A prediction model for stationary, short-crested waves in shallow water with ambient currentsCoastal Engineering, 1989
- Longshore currents generated by obliquely incident sea waves: 1Journal of Geophysical Research, 1970
- Barrier Island FormationGSA Bulletin, 1967