Nonlinear Kelvin and continental-shelf waves

Abstract

Equations are derived for the variation along a straight coastline of Kelvin and continental-shelf waves. It is assumed that the effects of nonlinearity and dispersion are of the same order in a small parameter ε defined by the equation ε² = f²=L²/gH, in which f is the Coriolis parameter, L the shelf width and H the water depth beyond the shelf. Kelvin waves are found to satisfy the Korteweg–de Vries equation, while continental-shelf waves satisfy a closely related equation. An approximate rule is derived for the variation along a real coastline of the maximum wave height for fully developed nonlinear Kelvin waves.