The initial-value problem for long waves of finite amplitude

Abstract

Derived herein is a set of partial differential equations governing the propagation of an arbitrary, long-wave disturbance of small, but finite amplitude. The equations reduce to that of Boussinesq (1872) when the assumption is made that the disturbance is propagating in one direction only. The equations are hyperbolic with characteristic curves of constant slope. The initial-value problem can be solved very readily by numerical integration along characteristics. A few examples are included.