Surface waves on water of non-uniform depth

Abstract

Gravity waves occur on the surface of a liquid such as water, and the manner in which they propagate depends upon its depth. Although this dependence is described in principle by the equations of the ‘exact linear theory’ of surface waves, these equations have not been solved except in some special cases. Therefore, oceanographers have been unable to use the theory to describe surface wave propagation in water whose depth varies in a general way. Instead they have employed a simplified geometrical optics theory for this purpose (see, for example, Sverdrup & Munk (1944)). It has been used very successfully, and consequently various attempts, only partially successful, have been made to deduce it from the exact linear theory. It is the purpose of this article to present a derivation which appears to be satisfactory and which also yields corrections to the geometrical optics theory.