Computations of overturning waves

Abstract

The numerical method of Longuet-Higgins & Cokelet (1976), for waves on deep water, is extended to account for a horizontal bottom contour, and used to investigate breaking waves in water of finite depth. It is demonstrated that a variety of overturning motions may be generated, ranging from the projection of a small-scale jet at the wave crest (of the type that might initiate a spilling breaker) to large-scale plunging breakers involving a significant portion of the wave. Although there seems to be a continuous transition between these wave types, a remarkable similarity is noticed in the overturning regions of many of the waves. Three high-resolution computations are also discussed. The results are presented in the form of interrelated space-, velocity- and acceleration-plane plots which enable the time evolution of individual fluid particles to be followed. These computations should be found useful for the testing of analytical theories, and may also be applied, for example, to studies of slamming forces on shipping and coastal structures.