Morphological foundations of fiber properties

Abstract

Structural theories which have been developed to interpret the chemical, physical, and mechanical properties of fibers are reviewed, with particular emphasis on the natural fibers. It is pointed out that many of the current theories of fiber structure derive from early concepts of the natural cellulosic or vegetable fibers. The micellar, the fringed micellar, and the fringed fibrillar theories, as well ay the concept of lateral order distribution are presented. The growth and development of cotton fibers are discussed and variations in structure are shown to be reflected in their properties. In this connection fibrillar orientation and helical reversals in cotton fibers are particularly important. The complex organochemical and supermolecular structure of keratin fibers is presented and is shown to be related to the chemical and mechanical properties of these fibers. Cortical asymmetry is a unique structural feature of keratin fibers which is responsible for the characteristic three‐dimensional crimp of wool fibers. The well‐known supercontraction of keratin fibers in a variety of chemical systems is discussed in terms of a chemical mechanism involving sulfhydryl‐disulfide interchange.