Experimental Verification of Numerical Model for Nonlinear Wave Evolutions

Abstract

Data collected from measurements in a two‐dimensional (2D) wave flume with a trapezoidal bar on a horizontal bottom are used to test the numerical model previously developed by the writers. The experiments were performed both for monochromatic and for random waves, with two different peak frequencies. Overall agreement between the computations and the measurements is quite satisfactory, indicating that the numerical model favorably predicts waveform evolutions resulting from shoaling over the upslope, near‐resonant wave‐wave interactions over the bar, and decomposition behind the bar.